Corset Stitching – Boning

Boning is a piece of plastic/ metal/ wood, that is inserted into the corset to give it a rigid look and help in the contouring. The boning I will be using is a plastic one, 0.6 cms wide. (I don’t recommend plastic boning if you are making one, this is dummy piece and for college submission which is why we’re asked to use plastic boning. The best is spiral metal boning, it nicely clinches the waist and easily contours at the seams) To insert a boning, you need to create a boning channel.

Now there are 4 ways of making boning channels, the one I have done is the Haute Couture method of attaching a boning.

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So you need to start off with iron your seams flat open. Ideally, you fold them on one side and iron them flat, but for this boning, you need seams open flat. Please ignore the blurry picture, I tried finding any other pic for my open seams but couldn’t. Sincerely sorry. This is just to show you what I mean by open up the seams.

Take a piece of fabric, preferably the one you are gonna use for lining. Cut bias strips, 1 inch wide. What is bias? Cut the fabric at an angle of 45 degrees to the selvage. The bias provides the elasticity required to mold the strip on the curves of the corset. A straight grain strip won’t mold and would cause puckering on the outside.

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So once you have strips ready, place them on top of the flat seams. Pin only the seam allowance and the strip together, DO NOT pin the main fabric.

Now place it on the side, such the only the seam allowance and the strip and coming under your needle. Give a stitch 0.5 cms from the edge of the fabric. This also depends on how wide your boning is. The one I have is 0.6 cms wide, so I need a boning channel that’s at least 0.8 cms wide, not more.

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Do this on either side of the seams. Once it’s done, you’ll observe a certain space in the center, that is your boning channel.

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Here you can see I did two sets of seams. Initially the channel was too wide and the boning was slipping so I had to stitch 0.2 cms insides from both sides to make the boning fit.

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Inserting the boning in the channel

The best part about this kind of boning channel is that nothing is visible on the front side of the corset. Its clean, no top seams, nothing that suggests a boning is inside. It’s hidden.

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This is how your boning channels will look from the back.

This technique will take time so you need to have the patience for it. Because the outcome is pretty good…. and clean.

So this was all about the boning. I will do a tutorial soon on other types of boning and boning channels. Click on the link below for Hems and Neckline Finishes.

Corset Stitching – Facing, Lining, and Hem

 

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