Corset Stitching – Facing, Lining, and Hem

Now once you have your corset in place and are done with your boning channels, its time to start working on the finishes.

Lets start with the neckline. The neckline will be finished by, of course, facing. In order to make the pattern for facing, place your patterns right next to one another, aligning the neckline, so it is continuous. The pattern will be on fold at center front. Even though the corset may have a seam at CF, the facing will not. Also it will be 0.1 mm shorter at the CB, as it will be inside the CB fold. The facing will be 3 cms wide and have 1 cms seam allowance on both top and bottom. Cut the pattern on the same brocade fabric. Facing can be on any grain.

I have decided to give the neckline a black piping. So before stitching the facing, we need to prepare the piping.

For that cut a bias strip, 2 inches wide. Fold it and place a cotton thread at the fold. Using a single presser foot, stitch right next to the thread.

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Once your piping is ready, its time to stitch the facing and piping to the neckline. Remember the piping has to come out when the facing is flipped at the back. For that, the piping will be sandwiched between corset and facing.

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Once its pinned, give a seam at 1 cms. Stitch a little further and check whether the piping comes out right,

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…and it is right. Let’s move on…
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Flip the facing at the back and pin the corset inside out on the dummy.

Now its time to get the lining ready. For lining pattern, mark the boundary of facing on the corset panels and trace the remaining panel down. Since the lining will be stitched onto the facing, we need to exclude the part of facing from the pattern.

Cut the panels onto an appropriate lining fabric. I am using a black cotton rayon for it. Once the panels are cut, stitch them just like the corset panels.

Lining Corset

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After the lining is stitched, you need to pin it on the dummy, such that the seams of lining fall on top of seams of the corset.

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Pin the seams on seams.

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Unpin from the dummy, place it flat and pin the remaining areas and stitch the lining with the facing at 1 cms.

Now you do this step before at well, stitch the lining with the facing first and then attach the whole thing together. There’s only one problem that occurs, is that the seams of lining may not perfectly line up with the seams of corset. So its advised to stitch the lining after facing is done.

Now you can have a lining cum facing as well, where your lining will be throughout the top and it will act as facing as well. That works too.

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This is how the facing and lining will look once they are stitched.

Well, this was all about neckline finish and lining. Click on the link below for Hems and Eyelets.

Corset making – Hems and Eyelets

 

 

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