Corset making – Hems and Eyelets

 Now once you have your corset, neckline, and lining in place, its time to start closing them all to create a nice beautiful seamless inside out corset.  Let’s start with the hemline. Remember we took 3 cms seam allowance in the beginning, mark that 3 cms all the way from one end to another and fold in towards the inside. Make sure as you are folding, your seams should fall on seams. You’ll see that in the side panels, there is some puckering when you put seams on seams so you will have to gather it and then iron it flat.

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One thing you need to do before this, using a pin mark the 3 cms on the boning through the boning channel. Then pull the boning a little out where you can see the mark. Chop the boning 0.5 cms above the mark. This way while folding at the seams, the boning will not interfere with the hem.

Once you have the hem folded and pinned, you need to herringbone stitch it all the way through. I used a dark thread for it so it’s difficult to see it, so I’ll just attach a picture of the stitch from google and a link to its tutorial. This is the best tutorial on herringbone.

So this takes time, remember not to take too much of fabric into the stitch, just like 2-3 strands. Keep checking the other side just to be sure no stitch is visible.

After your hem is finished, its time to attach the lining at the folded hem. For this, you need to let your lining free fall first, just check that lining should be only 1 cm longer than the final length of the corset. Now fold the edge of lining at 1 cms and place it right at top of the edge of the folded hem. (where you have done the herringbone stitch)

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At the edge you have the blind hem the lining with the folded hem.

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So this is my corset with the lining and hem done. One thing you will notice that there is a little bulk in lining, that is important, don’t stretch your lining to the fullest so its uniform, it shouldn’t be otherwise it will lead to puckering of the corset on the front side.

Now what to do with the center back opening. Firstly, fold the fabric at 4 cms on the inside. Now you have to create a boning channel here. Why? Well, this is where your eyelets will come and eventually, the lacing. When the corset will be laced tight, it will create a lot of tension on the edge and the seams. The boning at the end will provide a structural support to the corset and give it strength. So fold the edge and stitch at 0.8 cms. Now in order to finish the remaining, you need to get the eyelets done.

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I went to sector 5 in Noida, and got my eyelets done. There’s this guy right next to a tea shop. He charges 2/- INR per eyelet. I got 8 eyelets on either side. There’s no rule about the eyelets being even or odd in number.

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I got gold eyelets done because they were going well with my gold brocade patterns.

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Here you see I made another boning channel after my eyelets just to give some more structure at the back. Now whatever is your remaining fabric left simply fold it and you have to finish the edge by blind hem. It’s that simple.

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You can I have folded the remaining fabric and pinned it up. Now I will blind hem it all way.

Now you’ll still realize that the top and bottom of the folds are still open. 4

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For finishing it, you need to use a hand needle and black thread and hand sew the edge close. Its similar to blind hemming, keep pulling the thread to bring the edges together and knot it inside the fold and cut the thread. This way there is not thread visible outside.

Now about the lacing. The best thing to lace is a double satin ribbon. There are millions of ways to lace a corset but this is the best because this involves knotting at the waist which is where you need the most pull.

That being done, your corset is completed. Congratulations you did it.

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So I hope you enjoyed going through this tutorial. I really enjoyed making it. It’s definitely a nice experience. It’s not easy though, not gonna sugar coat anything for you all. Its difficult but the result is awesome.

I didn’t attach a cup in this corset because this corset is for the dummy size D12, and putting a cup just interferes with the fitting on the dummy.

In case you want to attach a cup, you will have to do it before you stitch the lining at the hem. So you first hand sew the cup and then finish the lining at the hem.

In case you don’t want a back opening and want a front open corset, that will involve attaching a busk. Here’s the best tutorial on busk attachment. You will find the second part as well.

You can also have a zipper opening at the back. That will all depend on what kind of style you want.

Well, that’s about it. Hope you enjoyed it. Have a nice day. 🙂

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